Balthazar, WA.

6, The Esplanade, Perth.
Ph: 9421 1279

It is a rarity finding a good restaurant in Perth these days, so it is comforting to know that there is now one other restaurant that I feel I could safely turn to should the occasion arise. The restaurant is on the small side, though it is dressed up quite smartly, with striking wallpapers in the dining area and bathrooms, and wine bottles everywhere the eye can see.

I'm not sure if the menu we were looking at was their usual menu, or their lunch menu, but it did seem rather limited. Perhaps 5 different entrees to choose from, and likewise with mains (meals seemed to average $20-30). This was definitely not the case when it came to the wine list, filled with page upon page of wines sourced from all over the world, though there seemed to be a particularly strong presence of French wines that were not very familiar to me.

The food arrived promptly, and presentation was A-grade. I ordered the Salmon, and my company the risotto. Both of us were very impressed. I was particularly impressed with my meal, as it was complete in every facet. The presentation was beautiful, the serving portion was perfect, the sauce was full of flavour, yet not overpowering, the skin of the salmon was perfect, as was the flesh (I have never seen such beautiful Salmon in my life, the colour and texture was fabulous). The skin had a very unique taste to it; I suspect they integrated some seaweed into it. The asparagus, everything - was cooked to perfection.

Service was not as good as what I had heard, though being lunch time, I suppose it is expected that service be a little more casual. There was nothing really to fault in that department, though one waiter seemed to be a little arrogant.

We finished off with tea and coffee. I thought the coffee was pretty good. Both came with a pot of white and brown sugar cubes, and extra milk on the side. The flat white was silky and creamy.

Billcart-Salmon 'Brut Reserve' NV ($81 for a half bottle).
Didn't take any notes for this one, though it was a real delight! Probably the best NV I have tried, in fact, I think I preferred this over the '98 Dom, and '97 La Grande Annee. The beads were very fine and consistent. Nose of pear, almond, and gentle yeast. The palate is full-bodied, dry, and savoury. Lovely! (Rating: 94 pts).

Food 4.75/5
Service 4.5/5
Decor 4.5/5
Bathroom 0.75/1 (small)
X-Factor 1.5/2
Value 1.5/2
Total 17.5/20

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut NV

Champagne, cork, $80, 92 pts, Drink now.

Comments yet to come...

Moet & Chandon Millesime Blanc 1996

Champagne, 12.5%, cork, $125, 94 pts, Drink now-2013.

Lifted, fresh aromas of pear, citrus fruits, and toasted nuts.

Pale pear in colour, looking remarkably youthful for its age. Fine, erratic beads that gently soften out in the glass, slowing down in its efforts to rise to the surface.

The palate is full of consistent fizz, with plenty of richness and fine beads, giving an almost hypnotic/tranquil performance. The finish is extremely long and pleasant, showing hints of vanilla and mouse, in a marriage of youthful, fresh, and vibrant fruit, ending with perfectly balanced acidity that just lingers forever.

Drunk with two close friends, one of which had never had Champagne before, the other who had tried on several occasions, but never the highly acclaimed 1996 vintage. Nobody was disappointed.

Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Millesime 1992

RR Price: AU$130 upward

Source: Gift

Rating: 96 pts

Bollinger La Grande Annee Brut 1997

RR Price: AU$200 upward

Source: Restaurant

Rating: 95 pts

Gosset Grand Millesime Brut 1996

I was fortunate enough to sample this wine on tasting once. At that time I thought very little of Champagne and simply shrugged it off. Having left the store an hour later however, I noticed that the finish had not yet left my palate. After several months of mental foreplay with this wine - I decided to take the plunge and source one. To my regret, this wine is very rare, as it is an excellent Champagne for one, and of the 1996 vintage (the best vintage experienced in Champagne for over 300-years).

Several further months had passed and I managed to find one of these sitting in the corner of a shop, without futher adu; I made it my own. Perhaps I had placed too many expectations on this wine, but nevertheless it did not dissapoint.

Fine and pale in colour, very sparse bead, almost non-existent, just a stream or two of the tiniest bubbles. Glorious aroma on the nose, of fresh hazelnut and toasty brioche. On the palate, similarly fine, firm acidity. With just a little creamy edge to the feel on the palate, which shows sparkling minerals alongside more nutty character. You are left with a finish that is desperately characterful, mineral infused length.

It was not as good as I had remembered, or dreamt of, but it was nonetheless a very impressive wine, good enough to give a Dom Perignon a good run for its money at half the price.

RR Price: AU$130 upward
Source: Bottle store
Rating: 92 pts

Dom Perignon Cuvee 1998

This is a label not uncommon to many enthusiasts of the sport. As this vintage had received so much acclaim; I could not help but see what all the fuss was about.

Pale in colour, with golden highlights, the initial nose is of fresh almond, grapefruit, and gradually leads to cashew nut and spices, complemented by lightly toasted brioche. On the palate it is of satine texture, embrassing and caressing your senses. Momentary weightlessness followed by a vibrating finish that arouses the taste buds with controlled ardor. It indeed is a brilliant wine, but look elsewhere if it is value you are after.

PS - our waiter was kind enough to spill what would have been a good glass worth on the floor in his attempt to open the bottle. I suspect that this, in addition to the fact that I do not believe that the wine was stored at the correct temperature.. ruined the experience.

RR Price: AU$250 upward
Source: Restaurant
Rating: 90 pts